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Cellulose and acrylic air-drying paints remain reasonably easy to compound and polish for a considerable time, but 2-pack materials are best compounded initially within a day or two of being sprayed. If left too long, they become very hard and, if flatted, make it extremely difficult to compound out flatting marks. This is even more so if power tools are not available. If 2-packs need rectification by way of compounding, it is best to complete the flatting and compounding stages as soon as possible after initial drying, even if fine compounding is left until later.
Rectification of problems in the paint surface obviously depends on the depth of paint and the depth of the problem. Some will compound out without problem, whereas others may be embedded deeper in the paint film rather than simply stuck on the surface. Minor dust specks or slight dry spray can be rubbed out manually using a medium grade rubbing compound. Most types are applied with a damp cloth, rubbing with normal hand pressure in straight lines until the surface is smooth. Usually this leaves the surface dull, but the gloss will be restored by using a finer grade of compound or polish to finish.
More serious defects, such as larger dust particles, paint sags or heavy `orange peel' effect can be rectified using ultra-fine wetordry paper , used wet with plenty of soapy water. Use 1200 grade or finer if available, especially on dark colours. Use a soft sponge rubbing block to avoid leaving finger tramlines in the surface, and flat the affected paintwork until the surface is smooth, rinsing the abrasive paper often to avoid damage to the fresh surface. Wiping the surface clean and letting it dry usually shows whether flatting has removed all the defects. Remember, only remove the minimum of paint to level the surface, as restoring the gloss with compound will remove a little more. >>>Continued
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