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When the skin is firmly crimped in place, a few spot welds in the original places will suffice to hold it securely, as well as a seam weld if the window surround section has been hacksawed for a lower section replacement.
Grind flat any welds, using filler where required, and also check for ripples and damage on the outer skin edges where the crimping has been carried out.
Sand or wire brush any loose factory primer from the door edges and apply a coat of etch primer on the inner folded edges *before* a bead of seam sealer is applied to the inner door seam. Check that the drain holes in the door bottom do not get blocked with sealer.
Etch and primer surface the full door. Colour coat the inside of the door, then when dry fit it to the car before spraying the outer panel. ( If it's a solid colour and you are sure of a good match, paint the whole door before fitting. Apply heavy tape to the edges for protection before refitting)
Don't forget a coat of Waxoyl or something similar to the insides before replacing the inner trim - most rust on replaced panels starts on unprotected inside seams!.
After all that, one last thing to consider; check around locally for salvage breaker door prices - you might just find a complete door with glass for the price of a doorskin, never mind the paint etc.!
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