Rust Repairs                    3 of 4

HomePage>>>Contents>>>Rust Repairs>>>Next Page>>>Previous Page

Contact Us              Tell a Friend                                                   

Body solder differs from conventional solders in that it becomes semi-solid, i.e., spreadable, before it melts fully into liquid. A small gas blowlamp is ideal for soldering small to moderate areas. It can only be applied properly to absolutely clean bare metal, using a liquid or paste flux. Always observe sensible precautions; remove any flammable materials or plastics from the surrounding area, and check the rear of the repair for wires, pipes or other items which may be damaged or catch fire.
Grind the rusted area back to bare metal, finishing with a wire brush if  necessary to remove all traces of paint and rust. Tap the holed metal so that it is just below the normal panel surface.
The area must be "tinned" first by applying a flux/solder mix to the heated area then immediately wiping excess solder away with a clean cloth to leave a smooth, solder coated surface.  A build up of body solder can then be melted into the repair, and with careful use of heat and a small wooden paddle, spread across the area to be filled. Just enough heat must be applied to the panel to ensure the solder flows properly into the tinned area, without allowing too much heat to build up and warp the panel. Practice makes perfect, and horizontal repairs will be much easier than any on a vertical surface.
When cooled, clean away any surplus flux before grinding roughly to shape and finishing with filler as normal. Avoid breathing grinding dust, as solder contains lead.>>>Continued

HomePage>>>Contents>>>Rust Repairs>>>Next Page>>>Previous Page                                           

Contact Us              Tell a Friend